Gwaii Haanas: simply spectacular!

I recently had the pleasure of joining Russell Markel and the Outer Shores Expeditions crew aboard the beautiful schooner Passing Cloud for a tour in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve, and Haida Heritage Site.

Passing Cloud sails along the coast of Gwaii Haanas National Park
Passing Cloud sails along the coast of Gwaii Haanas National Park

Gwaii Haanas is the southern part of Haida Gwaii and was born as a result of a standoff in 1985 between the Haida who have called this archipelago home for tens of thousands of years and logging companies intent on clearcutting the vast ancient old growth forests. Commercial fishing interests were also decimating native fish stocks with attendant effects both up and down the food chain.

Russell Markel briefs his guests on Gwaii Haanas
Russell Markel briefs his guests on Gwaii Haanas
Haida pole detail
Haida pole detail

The legacy of this brave act is a remote pristine wilderness conservation area that is a photographer’s dream. Perched on the edge of the continental shelf, Gwaii Haanas is visited by all kinds of whales, dolphins, sea lions and other marine megafauna. The rugged west coast is never still – open ocean swell pounds the windswept shore.

Round Cape St James and off the continental shelf!
Round Cape St James and off the continental shelf!
Russell takes his guests exploring on the wild west side of Gwaii Haanas.
Russell takes his guests exploring on the wild west side of Gwaii Haanas.

In contrast on the eastern lee side can be found tranquil bays, massive old growth forests and abundant evidence of ancient peoples such as the famous house and mortuary poles at the various village sites.

Watchwoman and commemorative pole at Hlk'yah GawGa (Windy Bay), Gwaii Haanas. Haida watchmen and women keep the rich oral traditions of their people alive, enriching visitors' experiences in the process.
Watchwoman and commemorative pole at Hlk’yah GawGa (Windy Bay), Gwaii Haanas. Haida watchmen and women keep the rich oral traditions of their people alive, enriching visitors’ experiences in the process.
An aerial view of Burnaby (Dolomite) Narrows; one of the most productive ecosystems on Earth
An aerial view of Burnaby (Dolomite) Narrows; one of the most productive ecosystems on Earth
Observing puffins and other seabirds nesting along cliffs, Gwaii Haanas.
Observing puffins and other seabirds nesting along cliffs, Gwaii Haanas.
Early morning in one of the many tranquil anchorages on the lee side, Gwaii Haanas.
Early morning in one of the many tranquil anchorages on the lee side, Gwaii Haanas.

Haida watchmen (and women!) are on site at the main cultural stops to help interpret the remains for visitors and to perpetuate the stories and legends of the Haida people passed down through generations in their rich oral tradition.

Yet another stupendous meal aboard the Passing Cloud.
Yet another stupendous meal aboard the Passing Cloud.
The promise of a beautiful day, Gwaii Haanas.
The promise of a beautiful day, Gwaii Haanas.
A transient (mammal eating) orca investigates the Passing Cloud. A hydrophone allowed us to listen in as the whales communicated.
A transient (mammal eating) orca investigates the Passing Cloud. A hydrophone allowed us to listen in as the whales communicated.

My role on the trip was to try to document the tour from the perspective of a guest. I captured some of the sights and sounds in the slideshow below, but one could return annually for decades and experience something new each time. Lucky for me I’ll be heading back next summer to lead the newest Outer Shores Photo Tour: Kunghit Island!

Haida Gwaii 2015 Slideshow from James Thompson on Vimeo.